a Step by Step Hair Growth Guide
I’ve searched the web again and again for information on how to grow fine natural hair long. That includes how to stop breakage and what needs to be done to promote length retention. My reason for searching for this information was not necessarily to grow my own hair but to see if it’s something that requires assembling all in one place to share with my fellow fine hair naturals.
I’ve read a few great articles on the web about growing natural hair. I’ve even read some great information out there on growing hair in general. Most of what you will find however is really not written specifically with fine hair naturals in mind. What we need are hair practices to promote hair growth along with specific natural hair regimens that will work for our fine (and sometimes thin) hair.
Some of what I will share can be applied to various hair types but I’m writing purely from the perspective of a natural with fine hair. I mean really fine hair. As in, so fine one strand of hair looks nearly invisible when singled out. You may have tons of strands on your hair that appear fine but if you have a lot of them, your overall head of hair is thick. I fall somewhere in between.
NOTE: This blog used to be called Radiant Brown Beauty. Fine Natural Hair and Faith has replaced it but you’ll notice that some of my photos are stamped with my old logo or name. I decided to keep these photos because they are great shots and why re-create them? 😉
How to Grow Fine Natural Hair Long –
Step by Step
When it comes to having fine hair, handling is critical. That’s because, each hair is a lightweight. Below, you will find step by step how I grew (and am continuing to grow) my fine natural hair long. This includes length retention.
I. Washing Fine Natural Hair
- Pre-poo (pre-shampoo) hair before washing using coconut oil and/or combined with a moisturizing conditioner
- Wash in sections (4-6 twists or loose braids depending on the length and density of hair)
- Use a sulfate free shampoo or co-wash product (not a conditioner)
- Stimulate the scalp when washing by using the pads of your fingers or a shampoo brush but do NOT brush through the hair.
- Finger comb hair when damp but not wet
II. Conditioning Fine Natural Hair
- Deep condition EVERY SINGLE Wash day. No excuses
- Use heat with your deep conditioner
- Focus on your ends but don’t forget your crown which gets the brunt of exposure from the elements
- Apply a little oil or honey to your deep conditioner to aid with slip if needed
- Allow your deep conditioner to cool before rinsing it out
- Rinse your deep conditioner out with cool water and use diluted aloe vera juice or apple cider vinegar to seal your hair’s cuticles after the wash/condition. (Note: Limit apple cider vinegar use to no more than twice a month)
- Your deep conditioner shouldn’t contain protein unless it’s intended for protein/moisture balancing such as Aubrey Organics GPB.
III. Strengthening Fine Hair
- Protein treatments are essential for fine hair to remain strong.
- Apply protein every other wash day but no less than monthly. It can be applied as part of your pre-poo or after washing/before deep conditioning.
- Always balance out a protein application with a moisturizing deep conditioner (unless you are using a product like Aubrey Organics GPB (see above)
- Henna is a great alternative to protein treatments. In addition to full strength henna treatments every other month, I have also used a henna strengthening spray recipe consisting of Henna, Shikakai and Amla powders, paired with tea tree oil, rosemary and/or peppermint essential oil.
IV. Moisturizing Fine Hair
- As important as protein, moisture should be applied before your hair dries out. If you have normal porosity hair, you can get away with moisturizing less often as long as you have adequately imparted moisture to your hair on wash day but as a rule of thumb, moisturize proactively. Daily is best.
- Moisture should be layered on wash day using a combination of the LOC, LCO, LCOC or other layering method. L = Liquid. O = Oil. C = Cream and or Conditioner.
- Never skip the leave in conditioner after washing your hair. It imparts add’l moisture.
- If your hair dries out sooner than you would like, seal your moisture in with a light weight oil like Jojoba oil, Almond oil or Argan oil. Heavier oils will weigh fine hair down. For a heavier sealant, use a mango or shea butter that’s been whipped (see this article on using Shea Butter on Fine Hair)
V. Protecting Fine Hair
- Sleep on a satin pillow case and/or in a satin bonnet/scarf at night
- Put a satin case over your car’s head rest
- Wear hair up when commuting
- Watch out for big earrings and necklaces which can snag the hair. It’s nearly impossible to untangle fine hair from it without resulting in breakage.
- Get rid of your flat iron. Direct heat placement to fine hair can be detrimental as it’s highly susceptible to breakage naturally. If you must, limit heat styling to no more than twice a year. But again, preferably not at all.
- Always use a heat protectant product when straightening hair with heat. Grapeseed oil is NOT a heat protectant.
- Opt to always Air dry vs. blow dry
- If heat styling, blow hair with warm heat before flat ironing. It will make the one pass method for straightening with a flat iron (direct heat contact) more effective.
- When blow drying, stretch your hair with your hands and protect the ends.
- Prevent breakage by oiling your hair every other night with a lightweight and easily absorbed oil like Argan oil. This will greatly reduce tangling and SSKs (single strand knots).
- Seal the ends of your hair with a heavier oil like Jamaican Black Castor oil or Thirsty Roots apricot castor oil that will keep them fused together. This will reduce the likelihood of split ends.
- Take care when styling your hair (see next section).
VI. Styling Fine Natural Hair
- Protective style 80-90% of the time
- Limit protect styling duration to no more than 2 weeks. Fine natural hair does not like to be bound up for long periods of time. The result of long protective styles is webbing and tangling.
- Utilize low manipulation hair styling aka easy styles like the wash and go or chunky twist out
- Do not use brushes on your fine natural hair. It will fray the cuticle and lead to breakage.
- Limit the use of large tooth combs but if you must use a comb, make sure it’s a large seamless comb.
- Never use fine tooth combs on your hair. You can use the tail of a rat tail comb to part but that is all. Do not use a rat tail comb to comb your fine hair…Ever.
- No added hair or extensions – Too much manipulation is required to install them. Just let your hair be. Style it in simple styles like buns, twist/braid outs that are created with medium to large twists/braids.
VII. Trimming Fine Natural Hair
- Trim individual hairs by feel. You can feel splits easier than you can see them. If you wear your hair in its naturally curly state, it’s not necessary for it to be even. In fact, it’s best that it’s not.
- Get a professional trim at least once a year. You will require less trimming if you protect your hair from damage.
Each of these methods of caring for fine natural hair is an important part of the step by step process to growing fine natural hair long.
While the steps I have just shared with you makes up this comprehensive hair growth guide for fine natural hair, there are some additional articles that you may find helpful.
Ayurvedic hair care is another method growing hair that is extremely effective. While the articles on this page do not include these types of indian hair growth secrets, I’ll be creating a guide for that as well….soon!
A Word on Silicones
Many naturals have a problem with using products containing silicones. Silicones have not affected my hair’s ability to grow or maintain length. In the past when I used hair products containing silicones, I periodically clarified my hair with a bentonite or rhassoul clay wash. These help to remove product build up. Additionally, an apple cider vinegar rinse will do the same. I tried the Curly Girl Method for nearly a year and didn’t notice a substantial difference in my hair’s condition so I am continuing to use rinse out conditioner containing silicones.
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